New Transmission  59                 May  2012

I used 5/16" all-thread that are six inches long to pull the clamps together. I used lock-nuts on the back side and then regular nuts along with lock washers on this side. Notice the piece of insulation between the chassis and the exhaust. This is so there won't be any metal-to-metal contact and so it won't rattle either. By doing this it created a small air gap between the exhaust and master cylinder that should work like the insulation is designed to do.
 

 

 
The remainder of the insulation will be used on the exhaust pipe like is was intended for. With me using this stuff on both sides of the problem I'm hopeful that it will do the trick.
 

 

 
This should give you a better idea of how this insulation works. With the pads against the tubing it creates an air gap that is key to keeping something insulated. This is a much better design than the previous version as the old stuff only had eyelets in place of pads and it required 'you' to make sure there was an air gap once it was installed. This new stuff almost guaranties you will have this all important air gap one you fasten it down.
 

 

 

It may not be pretty but it should do the job. Besides nobody will be able to see it under the car but that doesn't matter to me as long as it works.
 

 

 

Here you can see the air gap that should help keep things cool (arrow). I really like the way this new insulation is made and can't wait to try it out.
 

 

 
I was having some issues with the idle and wondered if it was my PCV valve causing it. The idle would be fine one minute and then would raise three or four hundred RPM the next. It's been doing this for the past couple of years now and I finally decided to remove the valve and see if that was the problem or not. When a PCV goes bad it has these kinds of symptoms so this would be an easy try.
 

 

 
I bought a new breather cap without the valve in it which now matches the other side. I plugged the hole in the intake manifold with a 1/4" pipe plug and then started the engine. I needed to adjust the idle a small amount (which was understandable) and was looking forward to seeing if there was a difference.

The next day I took it for a test drive for about 20 or 30 minutes and everything went very smooth. I drove through town for awhile and then took the freeway back home and there were no problems with the brakes. I was expecting the rotors to be warped but they seemed to be just fine. If they did have a problem I should have noticed it in the pedal while I was braking but I didn't feel a thing. Looks like the brakes are fine!!

As for the idle problem that was a different story because it still exists. I guess the problem has been in the carburetor this whole time but I'm still not sure exactly where. The good news here is that I know how to drive it and when I come to a stop I can make it idle right by playing with the clutch and brake. The bad news it that I have to play with the clutch and brake, so I guess I'll be looking a little deeper for this gremlin.

I thought I'd get around to working on my shifter and shifter boot but that didn't happen so those things are still on my list. Next week I'm hoping to make some progress on those items. And I haven't forgotten about making another throttle pedal but I don't know when that will happen yet either.

Oh...I almost forgot... I believe I dodged a bullet before I went on my test drive so be sure to see what happened with that next time too.
 

 

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