Degreeing the cam isn't hard but is
time consuming. By placing the timing set in place (timing gears) with a
zero offset bushing (to the right of the three bolts on the top gear) to
start with, I have to find "Absolute Top Dead Center".
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The degree wheel has one degree increments
on it so you can be very accurate at finding out where your cam (valve
timing) is REALLY at. After finding TDC (top dead center), it was now
time to see how close the cam was with the zero offset bushing. In
reality, this should be the one to use but with all the variables
involved, I won't be surprised if I have to use a different
bushing.
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These are some of the components that
came with the timing set. At the top we have the large copper washer that goes behind
the cam gear. This is really a spacer so the timing gear doesn't ride on the
block and wear it out. The pieces that are inside the spacer are the cam
button and the cam gear bolt washers. To the right is a lock washer for the
cam bolts. I'll show you how that works later. And on the bottom we have
four of the five offset bushings. From left to right are 2 - 4 - 6 -
and 8 degree bushings. The zero bushing (no offset) is what we're
starting with.
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After trying zero, two, and the four
degree bushings, I ended up using two degree offset bushing. Two degrees was not
enough and four was to much. Why did I choose the one that was not
enough? Because this would give me more torque at a lower RPM. The cam
was ground at 110 degree lobe separation but I ended up with 109 after
using most of the bushings. This is within one degree of what I wanted
so this would have to do.
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This is a close-up of the two degree
bushing. You have to look close to see the difference. Notice how it's
thinner at the red dots and thicker on the opposite side of the bushing.
You can install the bushings either way to give you different timing
which is why they supply them.
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