By welding the three pieces together
and putting a hole in each end piece which would allow the push-rod to
pass through, I now had something to bridge the gap. The end pieces are
1/8" thick mild steel and the tubing was a leftover piece that I
had from building my headers. I gave the end that bolts to the master
cylinder a little contour so it looks a little better.
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This is the push-rod that came with
the chassis. The end with the bearing bolts to the brake pedal and the
other to the booster. I needed to add 6. 200" to the length of this
because that's how thick the power booster was plus the amount
of the threaded area that was sticking out of the front of it.
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What I did was make a piece that attached to the existing piece by threading them together. The reason
I didn't make a one piece unit is because the bearing that you see in
the end of the existing rod has left-hand threads. The other end has
right-hand (normal) threads so this is what I put in the new push-rod.
On the other end I used a 1/4-20 X 2" socket head cap screw which
will go into the end of the master cylinder. To thread them together, I
cut the head off a grade 5 bolt and threaded it half way into each rod
and then tightened them. I now have my longer push-rod and it's very
strong. I started with a solid piece of steel and drilled a hole 4
1/2" deep on the 3/8-24 side and then drilled into that hole from
the other end with the smaller thread size. By making a piece of tubing
out of a solid piece, you end up with something very strong when your
done. I also gave the old and new pieces a little shine :-]
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Looking at the end of the master
cylinder you can see the hole that the 1/4" screw will go. This
hole is 1 1/4" deep which is a good thing but some aren't this deep
which could be a problem because the push-rod would fall out when the
brake pedal was released.
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