I ended up with only .0015" of
end play and I needed more. I have a buddy of mine that has a Scat
crankshaft like mine and he had the same problem. That makes you wonder
what kind of quality control they have. I needed between .003" and
.011" of end play and one of the ways to do that is to grind the
crankshaft. That would be costly and take time so the other way to make
clearance is to take it off the rear main bearing. Now it makes a
difference on which side you remove material with this process. The side
you want to make thinner is the front side (the side facing the front of
the engine). I got out the micrometer and checked the size of the wall
thickness before I started so I would have a reference. Then it was time
to break out the 220 grit sandpaper, a flat piece of steel (under the
sandpaper) and some WD-40 (so the sandpaper wouldn't load up).
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By working the one side a little on
the sandpaper and
then checking to see how thick the wall was, I made some much needed
clearance. I removed about .0035" to .004" of material this
way. Here
is what they looked like after removing material with the sandpaper.
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It was time to put the crank back in
and torque it back down to see how everything looked. I now had
.0055" of clearance with about 15 minutes of work. Now this is what
I'm talk'n about!
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Here is a close-up of the dial indictor
that shows the size. This was well worth the time it took to do and it was
easy. Now it's time to degree the cam.
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