| I've been really having trouble
        deciding what engine to put in the car. What I mean is, I know I want a
        small block Chevy but I wanted something to set me apart from so many
        others out there. What I came up with was a stroked small block. What's
        does "stroked" mean?? It's when you put in a crank shaft that
        has a longer stroke than the original one has. In this case, the one I
        wanted would have a 4.00" stroke rather than a 3.5" like a 350
        cubic inch has. Now I know
        this doesn't sound like much but add to this a larger diameter bore of
        4.155" and we have a larger cubic inch motor. How big you ask, well
        after doing the math this will be a 434 cubic inch small block. With this
        size motor, it should set me apart from most and I should have plenty
        of torque as well. Let's go through some of the components that I will
        be using. 
 | 
    
      | The block is the foundation for any
        engine and the one I will be using is not made by General Motors (GM),
        it's made by a company called  
		Dart. Why didn't I use a GM block?? There
        are lots of reasons so let's go through the list. First a
        "good" GM block is hard to find and I wanted one that had
        four-bolt mains (four bolts on the three center main bearing caps). The
        Dart block takes it one step farther by adding the four-bolts to ALL
        five main caps. By having all these bolts it adds strength to the whole
        assembly which is a good thing. Also, this block has priority main
        oiling which means it oils the main bearings first compared to the GM
        block that oils the cam bearings first and then the mains. The Dart
        block also has thicker material in the critical places, like in the
        cylinder bores. Even though I am boring this out to 4.155", there
        is still over .250" of wall left. A GM block doesn't even come
        close to that. 
 | 
    
      | 
     | 
    
      | Here you can see the bottom of the
        block and all five of the main bearing caps with four bolts each.
        Another thing this block has it thicker oil pan rails so you can grind
        for rod clearance and won't have to worry about hitting water. I'll show
        a better picture of what I mean later. Now all this extra material is a
        good thing but there's always some bad to go with the good. The bad part
        is that it weighs more than a GM block but not by much. The difference
        is something like 20 lbs or so. Some of the extra weight has been added
        to the web under each main bearing area which is something that has been
        a problem with the GM blocks because they are prone to cracking there. 
 | 
    
      | 
     | 
    
      | This is a shot of how the bores came
        out after I got it back from the machine shop. Now these look great and
        Dart has instructions on how the block should be bored and honed. When
        you get within .003 of final size while honing, your suppose to change to a finer
        stone and bring it to size. Then change to a finer one again and
        stroke it three times again. One last change to an even finer stone and
        then stroke it three more times. After all this the cylinders should be
        good to go. One other thing Dart does is blind tap the threaded holes
        for the heads. GM's holes go into water so this is another plus. 
 | 
    
      | 
     | 
    
      | This shot is in the valley (middle
        when looking down on the top of the block) of the block where the oil
        drains back to the oil pan. GM blocks don't have these slots like this
        but have holes on each end (one in the front and one in the rear). Well
        I like this idea because the oil will have to drain back down right on
        the cam. Why is this a good thing? Anytime your idling and engine for
        long periods of time with a BIG cam, your asking for trouble because the
        cam relies on the splashing effect from the crankshaft to oil the lobs
        of the cam. If the RPM of the engine is higher then there's not to much
        to worry about. I just see this as some insurance to oil the cam at all
        times. Notice the casting flaws in the corners and all through the
        slots. 
 | 
    
      | 
     | 
    
      | To get as much oil as I can I had to remove all the
        flaws so out came the
        Dremel for that job. This tool makes fast work when uses with a
        1/8" carbide burr. 
 | 
    
      | 
     | 
    
      | Now this looks much better after the
        rough edges are all gone and I added a little chamfer around the slots
        too. This should drain a little better now. 
 | 
    
      | 
   | 
    
      | 1  2 
3  4 
5  6 
7  8 
9  10 
11  12 
13  14 
15  16 
17  18 
19  20 
21  22 
23  24 
25 
26  27 
28  29 | 
    
      | 30 
31  32 
33  34 
35  36 
37  38 39 
40  41 
42  43 
44  45 
46  47 
48  49 
50  51 
52  53 
54  55 | 
    
      | 56  57 
58  59 
60  61 
62  63 |