Knife Holder    10                    1-2016

What I need to do next is make a recess in the handle for the head of the rivet, which is called a 'counterbore'. This counterbore will allow the head of the rivet to sit flush with the top of the handle when finished. Once everything is sanded, the top of the rivet and the top of the handle should look pretty good.

What you see below is a small fixture that I made to help me align the drilled rivet hole in the handle with the tool I'll use for my counterbore. By placing the hole in the handle over the pin, I can come down to a desired depth and both holes will be concentric. The pins are both slip-fit and stick out 1/8" so depending on which rivet I'm using, that will determine which pin I use.
 

 

 

I'm using a 5/16" end mill for my counterbore and it's set to a depth of .042" which is the thickness of the rivet head. All I do is hold the handle with one hand, place my drilled hole over the pin and then come down to my depth. This worked out great and saved me a bunch of time. Now they make a special tool that will drill the hole and counterbore at the same time but I didn't buy it. Besides I would need two sizes of these special tools (two sizes of rivets) so doing it my way it saved me 50 bucks.
 

 

 

Now that the rivet holes are finished, it's time to do more layout. What I'm doing is placing the tang of the knife on the handle material, putting all three rivets into the holes and then trace around the tang with a pencil. I cut away the excess on the right side with my hacksaw and then used my belt sander for the rest.

Notice I have an "L" and "R" on my handle material. When the blade of the knife is towards my workbench (sharp edge down), this is how I determine which side is left and right. So while I'm doing my layout I make sure to flip the knife over when tracing around it.
 

 

 

Here you can see the handle shape is roughed out, which my belt sander made quick work of. I sanded close to the line but not to the line. That's the good news but the bad news is this handle material smells terrible while it's being sanded. I ended up putting on a mask so I wouldn't have to smell or taste this stuff as much. BTW, the mask worked out great but my 'whole garage' was covered with a red tint when I was finished.
 

 

 

Here are both sizes of rivets. The ones on top are smaller which I'll be using first. They both come in packs of 25 each but I'll only be using six for the smaller knives. You can see one is solid and the other is hollow. They need/must go together a minimum of 1/8" to hold together correctly.
 

 

 

Here you can see what it looks like when pressed together. I used my bench vise for this which was very easy. The amount of press fit is .012" which at first seemed like a bunch. But if you think about how thin the wall thickness is for the hollow one and how it expands as the other one enters and grows by that same amount, it doesn't really seem that bad.

Now I experimented with this before I drilled any holes in the handles so I would know what size of drill to use before hand. If I used a drill the same size as the rivet body before pressing them together, something tells me that I'd be in trouble because the rivet wouldn't have any room to expand.
 

 

 

One other thing came to mind: what's the over all length of the rivets when they're pressed together all the way? What I mean is, if the overall length of the rivet was greater than the handle thickness, they wouldn't hold the handles on correctly. So I pressed it again until it wouldn't go anymore and then took a measurement. Turns out I was good to go but not by much. Just the little things to be sure about before assembling anything.
 

 

 

I used a two-part epoxy for the glue, which is the same stuff I used on my other knife project. By pressing on both plungers at the same time this is what you end up with.
 

 

 

After mixing it together for a minute or two with a wooded stick, the glue is ready to go. I also used my wooden stick to apply the glue with (the tang only) not any on the handles. BTW, the metal that I'm mixing the glue on is the top  of my bench. I cleaned the bench with lacquer thinner before mixing and then used it again for cleanup. Just one of the many reasons for having a metal bench top.
 

 

 

I used my bench vise to press all the rivets together and then used some aluminum shims under all the clamps. Note: I cleaned the surface between the shims and handle before I clamped anything. Again thinking ahead here.
 

 

 

Here is what it looks like the next day. Notice all the rivet heads are slightly recessed here. I thought it would be a good idea to make sure the heads were just below the surface. In reality, it just made for more sanding so I didn't do this when I worked on the larger ones.
 

 

 

Here you can see the heads up close. Now they aren't down that far but it made for some unnecessary sanding on my part. Live and learn.
 

 

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