33 Coupe Engine Install 4        8/23/03

On the left is a poly-lock with the C-clip attached to it. Next is a setscrew that goes in from the bottom and gets tightened with the hex key. This is what goes on each rocker stud to keep it adjusted and not come lose. 
 

 

 

Now you can see what goes into adjusting a valve. My cam specs say to use a .028" valve lash so out came the feeler gages. Now when you adjust valve lash (the gap between the rocker and valve stem), you don't want to slide the feeler gage straight in. You want to have it enter from the side because of the roller on the end of the rocker. The roller bearing makes it to easy to slide the gage between the two giving you a false reading so this is why you always enter from the side. By turning the end wrench a small amount at a time, you sneak-up on your target adjustment and when you get close, you then tighten the set-screw with your hex key like a jam nut. Now you just don't do this at random, you have to know where the heal of the cam is at all times. This way your assured that the lifter is not starting to climb the cam lobe and giving you a bad adjustment.

How do you know where the right spot on the cam is while your adjusting? It's easy once you know and it goes like this...'when the exhaust valve just starts to open, adjust the intake. When the intake valve has opened and is about half way closed, adjust the exhaust'. This is the way you adjust any cam type whether it be a mechanical (like mine) or a hydraulic. There might be a test on this later so you better read it again if you didn't get it the first time  :-] 
 

 

 

This is the stud girdle which is made out of Aluminum and anodized. Now you can see where the poly-locks and there ground surfaces will locate. 
 

 

 

After all eight valves had been adjusted, the stud girdle gets tightened up in four places. This should keep the rocker studs in the correct geometry while the engine sees some high RPM's. Now it's time to do the other side.
 

 

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