| Making More Clearance Continued   If you look close you can see the dead-center (arrow) is 
		almost at the 7" mark on my scale. This means I'll just clear my work 
		piece when I get ready to turn it. This is good news and means I can 
		continue with my project using my lathe. 
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      | Making Tooling   I drilled and reamed a 5/16" hole in this piece of tooling that will 
		go into my faceplate. I plan on using a 5/16" dowel pin in this hole. 
		
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      | And the other end of the pin will go into my work piece placing it in 
		the center of my faceplate. 
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      | Here is what it looks like installed inside my faceplate. Now I'm ready 
		to start machining some wood. 
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      | Working With Wood Again   This is a similar setup that I used on a previous 
		project. With the use of that 8" diameter wooden piece that is being 
		pressed against my work piece, using my tail stock, this should provide 
		enough pressure to keep everything clamped in place while I machine my 
		new project. 
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      | And like my previous project, I'll have to use my cross-slide (arrow) to 
		hand feed a boring bar to turn the outside diameter. This is 
		unconventional doing it this way, but it does get the job done. 
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      | Here you can see my long boring bar sticking out with just enough travel 
		using my cross-slide to move across my work piece to turn the 
		outside diameter or O.D. 
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      | Now I don't have anything to measure the O.D. accurately 
		because the largest calipers that I have only go to 12". But I do know the O.D. 
		of my face plate and by measuring the distance from my work piece down 
		to my faceplate, I can calculate the diameter of my wooden piece.
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      | Most calipers have what's called '4-way measuring', which 
		are O.D. -  I.D. - depth and what I'm using here called 'step' 
		(arrows). The step measurement on calipers comes in very handy, as you 
		can see. Now that the O.D. is at my target size of 13.5", it's time to 
		produce a recess in the face of my clock. 
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      | I'm recessing the face of the clock 3/8" deep and 
		leaving a 1/2" wide raised area around the face. To this I'm using the 
		same method as I before (using the cross-slide) but with a different 
		cutting tool. 
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