Making A Router Fixture Continued
Here I'm scribing a mark on all my shelves using a
height gage. Now I realize that most woodworks don't own a tool like
this, but I happen to be a machinist and don't know any other way to
put a mark on a work piece that would be this accurate. Again, this is
overkill, but I happen to own these tools so why not use them.
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Here is what my scribed line looks like,
which should be easy to line up with my pencil line that's on my
fixture.
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Here is my work piece clamped in my fixture so you can get an idea what I'm
doing.
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This should give you a good idea how I'm lining up
everything. It's a little dark inside this area so I'll be using my
flashlight and magnifying glass to make sure I'm lined up correctly.
This worked just as I envisioned it would, so I'm happy so far.
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Here is my new router bit that I'll be using. It's 3/4"
diameter with a top bearing. Most template router bits have a bottom
bearing but I couldn't use that kind with this fixture.
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Well now...that's not going to work like I wanted.
See how the bearing is right at the top of my fixture?
And see how much the router bit is sticking out from the bottom of it? I
want to take 1/8" deep cuts, not the entire cut all at
once. I'm not going to use it like this because it would take too big of
a cut, so I need to come up with a fix here.
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I did some measuring and I need 3/8" more material added
to the top of my fixture to fix my problem. I found a piece that would
work so I put it through my planer and brought it down to 3/8"
thickness. Then I cut the width and length to what I needed.
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Next I fastened it to my clamp plate. Now I need to cut out the area
that you see below so it matches what I have underneath it.
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I still had this setup on my milling machine, and a few minutes later I had both slots cutout. Now it's time to to some
testing.
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I added some 2" X 6" blocks to the bottom so it's at a more comfortable
height for me to use.
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