Making A Router Fixture Continued
I'm adding some 3/8" steel dowel pins to my fixture,
along with four hold-down bolts. Below I'm reaming the clamp plate
(which will have clearance for the 3/8" pins) but the base will have press fit pins. The
3/8" hole in the center is a tooling hole that also lines up with one of
the same size and location in the base. This way I can make sure that everything
lines up when I'm finished.
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Here you can see the steel dowel pins along with four
springs. The springs will help lift the clamp plate once I loosen the
four bolts making it easy and convenient to slide my work piece.
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I used a 3/8 diameter endmill and went about .350" deep for my
spring pockets. This was
simple to do and will aid in lifting the clamp plate when I loosen it.
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I'm going to use some Tee Nuts that have 1/4-20 threads that will help
hold the clamp plate down.
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I drilled some 5/16" clearance holes and then pressed the Tee Nuts in
the base from the bottom.
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I'll be using a Nut Driver to tighten and loosen the
1/4" bolts. This method should work great compared to a ratchet and
socket because the bolts don't need to be "that" tight. Now it's time to
cutout the profile of the slot that I want to produce on my work pieces.
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Below you can see the shape that I'll be cutting out
which is in pencil. I'm going to rough-out the hole first using a 1 3/8"
Forstner bit.
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Next I used my boring head to produce a 1.500" diameter
hole. Could I have used a 1 1/2" Forstner bit for this? Yes I could. But
I wanted a nice finish so my flush-trim router bearing would ride on a nice smooth surface
compared to a rough one. Is this overkill? Yes it is. But the results
should justify the extra time involved.
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I wanted the slot portion of the cutout to be nice and
clean without any tear-out (arrow). To make sure the edge stayed nice and sharp,
I cut the slot using this scrap piece in place. This way when I cut the my shelf
pieces, those edges will be nice and clean as well.
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This slot is 1.500" wide, which is what I need so the
bottles fit the shelves correctly. But as you can tell this slot goes
into rail by about an inch. This is so I can drop the router bit into
this area before starting my cut. In other words, it gives me a place to
start, go around the U shaped slot and then end in this area.
Also notice the new smaller slot at the bottom. This is going to
be my "viewing window" to lineup my work pieces with. Notice the pencil line,
it's on the same center of the U shaped cutout. My plan is to put a line on
all my shelves, line up both lines, and then tighten down the clamp
plate.
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