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Cantons Continued You can see my cheat-sheet below. I drew the flag in my
CAD program, transferred all the star locations into Microsoft Excel and
then printed it out. With 50 holes to center-drill and then drill to
size, this is why I changed parts after every drilled motion.
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The large ones were a different story
because they won't fit in my vise. This means I had to dial between each hole
many times. Below I'm indicating my work piece parallel to the X axis.
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Here I'm using a 3/4" (.750") end mill to rough each hole with. The
shotgun shells measure .812" diameter and as luck would have it, I just
happened to have the right size end mill for it, which I used for a
finishing tool.
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I had to be careful while setting up here because I
wanted to dial each hole without moving my work piece, if possible. My
mill had just enough room in the Y axis to move between each hole without moving
or re-setting up my work piece, meaning I did all the holes in one
setup. The distance between my work piece and machine (arrows) was about
1/4".
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Assembly
The large flags required me to buy some longer pipes for my pipe-clamps.
These new ones are 48" long.
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I'm getting ready to use my biscuit joiner again to keep the Cantons in
alignment. I figure it worked so good before, why not use here as well?
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After test fitting everything, I was ready to apply more glue, but only in this
area.
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Here I'm using some clamps to hold things together while
assembling. However, I did not use glue between the maple and sapele.
The reason for this: because I
thought it would be too hard to deal with all those glued surfaces so I only used it under the four pine stringers on the back.
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To keep the pine stringers in place, I'm using 1 1/4" long brad nails.
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I bought a pneumatic brad nailer from
Harbor Freight for
this project. I used two brads spaced about one inch apart for a total
of 96 brads per flag.
Side note: if I were to make these flags again, I would
not use glue under the stringers. I would rely on the nails to hold
things in place.
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