The X, Y coordinates from the cheat sheet is what you see here. The four spots (arrows) are only .005" deep by  3/8" diameter, which are to give me a location to draw more layout lines. And later I'll return to this setup to drill those holes through.
 

Here I'm machining the saw cuts I just made. And yes I know, there is a lot going on here so let me explain.

Red Arrows: First, I'm using my vise to hold my work piece, but in doing so (along with all the material removed from the inside area), I didn't want anything to break or crack. To prevent this from happening, I used a parallel on the inside (to the right side) to help with stability, and I'm holding it with an F clamp.

Then towards the back I'm using an adjustable parallel to help support the back wall while I'm using two larger F clamps to hold a scrap piece of wood to protect from tear-out while machining.

Last I'm using another parallel on top of the center section to help stabilize it while I'm machining that area, otherwise that section will vibrate which will cause cutter chatter resulting in a bad finish.

Green arrows: These arrows represent my cutter path. I entered in the one side and exit through the scrap piece that's being clamped. Once I had the size I needed on this area, I had to move the two larger F clamps along with my scrap piece to the other side so I could machine it. This all worked out great but it took awhile to do this setup compared to the actual machining process.
 

Now that I'm finished with those two areas, 'm getting ready to cut a small recess around the inside perimeter which will be for a piece of clear plastic to set in. This plastic will be screwed into place and act as a way for mom or dad to get inside to retrieve the coins if they want. And Eliza will be able to see coines as they drop inside and to see how full it gets.

Similar to above, I'm using my vise again and I've added some much needed support using some adjustable parallels to the inside areas so I don't break or crack anything while I'm machining. I'm using a 3/8" diameter end mill for this process.
 

I'm using some acrylic for the clear plastic and it's just under 1/8" thick, so this way the plastic will set just below the wooden top surface. I did this on a previous project for Audrey because, if for some reason the bank was to slide on the front surface, it won't scratch the plastic.
 

I sandwiched the plastic between some wood (MDF) so I could machine it. Once I had it against my work stops at the back, I could then machine the front. Once the front surface was cleaned up, I turned it around and did the opposite side.