| Again I used my 3/4" end mill for the
dowel hole. However, I had to sand down the dowel a small amount to have
it slide through the hole.
|
|
I also put a small radius on the end so there
were no sharp edges to poke anyone.
|
|
 |
The square is resting on the top surface and the edge of the scale represents the
path of the screw. Notice the screw will just make contact with the
dowel keeping it from moving once in place.
|
|
 |
|
Here you can see what I was talking about. This worked
out really good.
|
|
 |
|
Here you can see the arm resting against the dowel and
it works great.
|
|
 |
|
Now it's time to put a nice radius on all the surfaces
that will exposed to skin. I used a 3/16" corner round cutter on my
router that made short work of all the edges.
|
|
 |
Some of the edges I wanted to keep sharp compared to most of them.
Notice the radius stops short of the end. This area will have a mating
piece that would look funny if I ran the radius all the way to the end.
I did this in a few places and placed a pencil mark where I wanted the
cutter to
stop. Not fancy but it worked.
|
|
 |
|
I had to buy a new can of this polyurethane made by Zarr
as I used up most but not all of the other can. However, after a couple of years
sitting on my shelf, it started to go bad. This product has an oil base
so instead of cleaning brushes, I just used the cheap
use-once-and-throw-it-away kind. The one problem with this type of brush
is that they tend to leave a bristle on your work here and there. But I
can live with that so I don't have to use a lot of lacquer thinner
cleaning any brushs.
|
|
 |
Here is my paint booth: saw horses and a piece of plywood with
finishing nails under the work pieces. This process works pretty good
but it smells really bad. I put two coats per side and after the first
coat, I remembered just how bad this stuff smells so for all the other
coats I used a cheap paint mask that helped a bunch.
|
|
 |
|
1
2
3
4
5
6
7 |
