Making Handles Continued

I left a small amount of clearance between the jaws and the step in my work piece. The reason is because the square area is just over 2" long, and I want my handle to be right at 2". This gives me just enough room to cut off the part without any clearance problems.
 

I adjusted my compound to 10 degrees and cut the angle. I also took time to sand while I was here, ending with 320 grit paper. Notice my parting tool is not all the way through yet. I stopped short because I don't want the handle getting damaged once it cuts through when things are spinning.
 

Here is what's left of the excess handles. The wooden dowels worked great so I could clamp on my parts nice and tight. Also note the small distance I had leftover so when I cut through, the wood dowel wasn't in my work piece so it worked like I wanted.
 

I wanted the pockets to have a nice smooth entry so I used my router table with a 1/8" roundover bit on each pocket.
 

I also want to put a radius on all the outside surfaces. The corners will have a 1/4" radius but the lid will get a 3/16" radius. To make sure the lid and base line-up, I'm using my surface plate to lay them flat, then I can clamp them together making sure they both line up.
 

I'm using a steel dowel pin to hold the handle on with, and it will also be used so the lid can pivot. The pin is 1 1/2" long.