I'm using some leftover wood called sapele for some edge molding. I ripped it on my table saw but made it slightly smaller than the thickness of the table. The reason for this: so it won't end up higher than the table surface when installed. In other words, if I were assembling something, like two pieces that I wanted to be flush with each other, but one of the pieces were laying across a high spot of the edge molding, this would cause a problem. But with the edge molding below the surface I don't have to worry about that.
 

I have two bases for my router. The one you see below has a ring with numbers on it for depth and the other is a plunge type setup. This Porter Cable router was given to me by my father-in-law many years ago but I really hadn't used it much. While I was looking at both bases and getting more familiar with them, I noticed two holes near the bottom on both of them. I have no idea what they're used for but they gave me an idea that might help me with the slots I needed to cut.

What I plan on doing is using that piece of 1 1/4" square tubing along with that block of aluminum to help me with those slots. I figured if I make a slot for the square tubing to ride in and attach the block to my router somehow, this could help guide the router nice and straight.
 

Here is the plunge router base with the same two holes as the one above (arrows). And you can see I've milled a slot in the aluminum for the square tubing. Now I need to attach the block to the router base and to do that I'll be using those two bolts. However, the holes in the router base don't have threads, they are reamed to a weird size of .290". But I have a plan...
 

These are 5/16-18 X 3" long hex bolts. As you can see I've cut off the heads and plan on turning the non-threaded area down so they fit into the holes in the router base. And the 5/16-18 threads on the other end will go into my aluminum block.
 

Here are the bolts that are now .002" smaller than the holes in the router base. Now to keep the bolts from coming loose from the aluminum block I've used jam-nuts. This will ensure they stay tight. Notice the ends of the bolts don't protrude into the slot in the block. This has to be so the block slides along the square tubing. And to keep the smooth end of the bolts from moving in the router base, there were some #12 holes already threaded in the base. I'll show you more once I get the table top attached.
 

I'm using some L brackets to attach the table top to my base. However, after looking at how flat the top sat I wasn't very happy. This meant I had to adjust the top here and there so it would sit flat. Notice the two different types of L brackets I'm using.