Here is what it looks like when the rivet has been squeezed all the way. I should have done this the first time because it was much easier like this. Again...live and learn.
 

I still had a small amount of squeeze-out with the epoxy which will need to be removed.
 

I used a razorblade for this operation which worked out great. I worked the blade straight down towards the blade first, then towards the handle, working a small section at a time. I then worked the blade straight down again removing small pieces until it was gone. Now it's time to hand sand all the sharp corners and end with 320 grit paper.

I placed more tape around the blade and against the handle before I started sanding. I also used a file to help form a radius between the front and side of the handle that is right next to the blade. The file removed material faster than using sandpaper only and was easier to control. After the file I came back with paper and blended everything.
 

After many hours of work, here are the finished knives. I'm pretty happy with them so far but I may put some mineral oil on the handles later. Speaking of the handles, I made each one a different thickness relative to the blade size:

Last Piece of the Puzzle

I bought this sharpening steel online thinking that it would work for my project. Turns out it's not made very well but you get what you pay for...right? Now a sharpening steel happens to be a big part of this knife holder so hang in there and you'll soon see why.
 

I know that I said this entire project would be made at home but this was unforeseen. On the other hand there are many choices of sharpening steels on the market which means this step isn't a necessity. I'm making a handle so everything matches but this project would still work and look great without remaking the handle.

Speaking of a lathe, I'd really like to have one of my own someday which would complement my milling machine. Soon!!
 

I've found out over the years that it's very important to distribute the camping force evenly and to do this I'm using some 1/4" machinist parallels. These are made out of steel, however, you could use wood or aluminum just as well. I have many different sizes of parallels so it just seemed natural. In other words, whatever works for you.
 

I cleaned up the block on all six sides making sure it was square and parallel. Here I'm cleaning up the ends and note the scrap piece of wood against the solid jaw. Again this helps prevent chipping the end of your work piece because even though this material is man made, it still has a grain to it like wood has.