Folding Knife  1                           3-2016

I've been wanting to make a folding knife ever since I made a fixed blade knife for my father-in-law for Christmas 2014. Now I don't know how to heat and forge a blade from scratch so I bought kits for his and mine. And these kits are pretty easy to assemble once you get going...but there's lots and lots of hand work to be done.

This knife kit (just like the fixed blade) came from Jantz Supply, which has a decent amount of knives to pick from. My only complaint with this knife is with the instructions, they could be a little more detailed but if you're willing to use some common sense you shouldn't have to much trouble.

This folding knife, P/N 'KV605MS Mini Sawtooth' is small but fits in your pocket well. The length of the blade is 2 3/8" and the over all length is 5 3/4" opened.  The worst part for this build is contouring the handle and the finish sanding. It's not hard, it's just very 'time consuming'. But then again most projects are time consuming if you want the end result to look nice and work right.

Almost all the parts are made out of stainless steel which is a good thing. I bought an extra belt clip (top left) because you never know when they might fail so having an extra one on hand is just insurance. The blade is made from 8A stainless steel (which has slightly less carbon content than 440c) has a drop point serrated blade (3/32 thick) which is heat treated to 57-58 HRC and is sub-zero quenched in the initial heat treating process to give it the proper hardness and strength. The locking liner comes with a 1/16" 440C ball installed for a smooth positive action.



The assembly was straight forward and went quickly. The pivot screw for the blade is slightly raised and is hidden by the the stainless bolsters which are attached with two T6 torx screws. The round recess in the bolsters cover the pivot screw (arrow). The knife has a 600 grit bright satin finish and will be 11/16" wide when finished.



The profiled 1/8" Micarta handles are a bit larger than the liners for final fitting. The handle surface is left flat for final shaping which means you can get creative if you want.



Here you can see the excess material around the perimeter.



Once I had the knife together I placed some tape on the blade so I wouldn't get cut and to protect the blade from scratches.



I started sanding the perimeter of the handles first with the help of my milling machine. I used a 1/2" diameter sanding drum with fine grit which worked great and was fast. You could always use a file and/or a sanding block in place of the drum sander.



Speaking of a sanding block, I'm using one here with 320 grit paper to smooth things out. I'm also sanding the stainless bolsters so everything matches correctly. Now beware because the list is long for choices of handle material. There is real wood, resin impregnated wood, plastic, all kinds of exotic stuff, etc. The Micarta that I went with is pretty tough and takes the weather very well.



Here's what it looks like after a few minutes with the sanding block. I used my belt sander to help rough the contour of the handles and then came back with some 220 and 320 paper to finish by hand with. After I was happy with the shape, I took everything apart and cleaned it.



After the sides were shaped like I wanted I was ready to layout for the belt clip. Now the belt clip can be fastened to either side but after messing with it for a few minutes I went with this side.



I'm using the tape to hold the belt clip in place along with using the holes as a drill guide. The drill size I'm using here is the tap drill size for a 1-64 thread. Yes you read that right, a 1-64 thread is the size of the screws that came with the belt clip. And the drill size I'm using for this is .0595 (just under 1/16").



Here you can see the three belt clip holes that I drilled in the liner but still need to be tapped. I also drilled clearance holes in the handles for the belt clip screws that were slightly larger than the screws.


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