33 Coupe Fuel System and Battery 1        11/23/03

The fuel system is going to consist of two different types of fuel lines. One will be 1/2" diameter aluminum tubing and the other will be #8 AN braided steel line. The aluminum tubing will be used to run along the frame rail under the car while the braided steel will be used in the engine compartment and then connect to aluminum. I'll also be using the braided steel line to go from the fuel cell, which will be mounted in the trunk, down to the frame where the aluminum tubing is. Installing the fittings are hard to do but looks good when your done so I hope nothing leaks. This is a Swivel-Seal hose fitting made by Earl's for the braided steel line. It has threads in one end for mating with other #8 fittings and the hose gets assembled in the other. 



The hose that I'm using is also made by Earl's and is called Auto-Flex. Earl's makes another type called Perform-O-Flex which is a grade above the one I'm using but much more expensive. The first thing that has to be done is to cut the hose. The way you do that is to place some tape (electrical or masking) around the area that will be cut and then cut through it. I used a Dremel with a thin cut-off wheel which works good, but you could use a hack-saw with a blade that has 32 teeth. Now you trim any loose or frayed ends that might be sticking out with some wire cutters. 



These two pieces screw together to make a hose connection. The socket (red part) goes over the end of the hose first which is easier said then done. You have to work the end of the hose a little at a time till you get all the loose ends inside the socket. I used a small flat screwdriver to help insert all the loose ends. If your not bleeding at the end of this procedure, you did good! The ends of the braided steel hose are not very forgiving. The other end is called a nipple (blue piece). You can see the barbed piece on the small end that swells the hose and the socket tightens against all this to make a seal. 



Once the hose is inserted into the socket, you have to make sure it isn't to close to the threads. You want about 1/16" to 1/8" of clearance between the two before inserting the nipple. At this point, I make a mark on the hose next to the coupler with a red Sharpie marker to see if the hose has moved once the two have been assembled.


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