Miter Saw Work Stop Continued I cut a seven inch piece from the stainless
bar and ran a die over one end with 3/8-16 threads. On a side note: the tap and die set
that I have is an old Craftsman set that I bought new in the mid 70's,
but is not high speed steel. Someday
soon, I'll need to upgrade this set to a better one because it was
really hard to cut threads on this piece of stainless steel.
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The surface that my work stop will be mounted to is
at an angle. To help compensate for some of this, I'll be using some
'spherical washers'. These allow me to move my threaded piece a few degrees in any
direction, which should be enough to keep the work stop parallel to the
miter saw table.
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Here is one of the two pieces that I'm making. This one is the shorter
one that will go into the miter saw base. The rectangular nut will be used
on the backside of the base and the hex nut on the front. This
arrangement will hold this short rod stationary.
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This should give you a good idea of the angle that I was referring to
earlier. And is why I'll be using the spherical washers to help keep the
threaded piece parallel to the bed of the saw.
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There is a hole on each side of the saw base that I can use if I want to
move it.
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The washers are maxed out in this shot and the 3/8"
diameter rod is still not parallel. Time to make an adjustment.
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To fix this problem, I'll pulled things apart and bent the rod a small amount,
then put a mark at the low point and re-assembled it again. Now if I
need/want to move it to the other side, it's easy to do.
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Here I'm adding a 1/4" radius on two sides. The opposite side has 3/8"
radius'.
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This longer rod is 17" in length and I put a radius on one end. This
radius makes it more forgiving to locate your work piece without the
worry of sawdust causing an issue.
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This should give you a better idea of how it works. I don't think I'd
ever need to cut a piece this short but I could if I wanted. And to
adjust the length, you just loosen the thumbscrew and move the rod where
you need it.
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