Bandsaw Upgrades  2                                                1-2023

 

1st. Bandsaw Upgrades Continued

And to take it a step farther, why not make a different shim for all my different blades? I removed the 1/4" blade and replaced it with a 3/8" blade, adjusted it, and then figured out what that size I had now. The difference between those two blades gave me enough data to figure out the size for all the different blades that I own. What I going to do is make five different shims of various sizes to accommodate all my blades.
 

 

 

Here I'm squaring all five shims on my milling machine.
 

 

 

Once all the shims were to the correct thickness and were square, I cut a slot in each one to clear the hex support shaft.
 

 

 

The numbers that you see are for the blade sizes, not the thickness of each shim.
 

 

 

Now when I want to change blades, I just have to match the proper shim to the blade size. That means I'll loosen my new screw, move the hex shaft, insert the proper shim, slid the hex shaft with the shim against the bracket and tighten the screw again. Very simple and very quick!
 

 

 

Here I'm testing a 1/2" blade on some scrap wood and the new shim worked exactly as I wanted.
 

 

 

I'm storing the shims on the side of my bandsaw, along with some other tools. From this point forward changing blades will be no big deal.
 

 

 

2nd. Bandsaw Upgrade

 

While working on my daughter's Christmas present, which was the bandsaw box that I made for her, I was having a hard time moving and turning my work piece for two reasons. The first problem was trying to slide and turn my work piece on the cast iron table. When working with some intricate curves you need complete control but I found myself forcing the work piece every now and then. This would lead me to over-shooting my line, which would cause the blade to dig in where I didn't want it to.

The second thing I found that hindered me was the table insert that sits just below the surface of the table (in the picture below I have the table insert removed). Every now and then my work piece would catch on that small lip, again causing my blade to go where it wasn't intended. I plan on making a simple fix for both of these problems.
 

 

 

This is my table insert, which is made out of plastic. Now this works fine for rough cutting but not for smaller and fine stuff. However, I found a simple fix for this.
 

 

 

I found this idea by complete accident while watching some guy working on a project on a bandsaw. This guy's project included some very small curves but he was moving his work piece with almost no effort at all. And then I noticed what he was using that covered his bandsaw table, it was 'dry eraser board'.

Now we all know how slick dry eraser boards can be, and at that moment the light bulb went on. Well the next day I went to the hardware store and was looking for a dry eraser board but they didn't have the traditional type that hangs on the wall, but they did had something else which was a 2' X 4' X 1/8" thick piece of wood with one side coated with some kind of an erasable surface.

I thought I'd try this because it was cheep and would be easy to work with. I cut a piece that was the same size as my bandsaw table plus about 1/2" per side.
 

 

 

I set me digital readout for 17.5" and sure enough it cut my work piece to that exact dimension. This new unit sure does save time setting my fence these days.
 

 

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